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Snap off the
cover, remove the screws, and expose the guts. This will most certainly
void any warranties, and I'm sure not offering you
any.
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The bearing cap that holds the wheel spindle in place is
screwed down on posts, as pointed to by the screwdriver. Using a file,
remove some material from one, or both posts. This will remove the play
from a worn wheel, and stop the teeth from skipping under high load by
seating the big gear into the drive gear as it should be. If you remove a
little more material than is necessary, you can adjust the tightness on
the wheel with the retaining screws without even removing the case. I have
no idea how many times you can shave these posts. Shortening these posts
compensates to some degree for the wear you've ground into the bearing cap
from normal use.
NOTE: If you
use a power tool on these soft, plastic posts, you're nuts. The first time
you touch it with the tool you'll remove more material than you want to. I
used a couple of warding files.
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This is my variation on the squash ball thing. I find these
balls at the local dollar store. They're made of soft sponge, and are for
exercising your hand to prevent repetetive stress injury (carpal tunnel
syndrome).
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My solution to the pedal base sliding around. I screwed four
posts into a board that touches the baseboard under my desk. These conform
to the shape of the back of the pedal base.
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After I twisted off one of the clamp handles, I found some
c-clamps that are tiny enough to go into the wheel base. These require
much less effort to clamp to the desk securely, and are 100% solid, as
opposed to the plastic things that came with it. I think they cost about
$3 each. That's Cdn, by the way.
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NOTE: I took some play out of the pedals using
similar techniques, and by cleaning them. Working on the pedal case is
much trickier than the wheel case, as there are springs under tension to
contend with, but I did benefit by cleaning the fur out of the various
spindles.
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| I hope this all
helps someone. |
